How to Choose a Winter Horse Blanket

Sheets are articles of horse clothing that have no fill or insulation in them, similar to a windbreaker for humans. Some are waterproof for lightweight coverage during the winter months, while others can be made from cotton blends for breathability during the warmer times of the year. Horse sheets are a great choice for moderate climates where horses need protection from the elements but don't need additional warmth. They are also suitable for clipped horses who need coverage during the day.

Blankets have fill between the outer and inner layers to provide the horse with additional warmth during winter. Blankets can come in a variety of weights to accommodate horses living in different climates.

Turnout blankets are designed to withstand the elements to keep your horse warm and dry. They usually feature a waterproof outer material and can vary in denier and level of fill. The denier (usually 600D or 1200D) determines how thick the fabric is, with higher deniers generally being more durable and less prone to ripping. Turnouts are most appropriate for horses that either live or spend time outside.

Stable blankets are similar to turnout blankets, except they are not waterproof. For this reason, they are ideal for horses that live inside. Available in different deniers and fills, you can pick the style based on how hard your horse tends to be on blankets, as well as how much warmth they need.

1. Front Buckles are adjustable, so you can achieve the perfect fit on your horse. However, there are blankets that have "surcingle" closures that will not allow any adjustment. Some blankets may have standard buckles, while others feature "quick-clips" that allow you to undo the buckles quickly and easily for convenience.

2. Shoulder Gussets are standard on most blankets and a must-have for horses with large shoulders. The additional fabric allows the shoulders to move comfortably and prevent rubbing as they walk, trot, or canter. Even horses with standard or small shoulders can benefit from shoulder gussets.

3. Neckpieces/Neck Covers offer further warmth and protection from the elements. Some attach directly onto the blanket while others may be incorporated into the blanket itself, such as a "combo" blanket. The removable neckpiece option is ideal for horses living in climates where the temperature can vary during the winter season.

4. Neck Styles can vary among blankets; however, the two most popular styles are standard-neck and high-neck. Standard-neck blankets come up right above the wither and typically have some padding, or a fleece piece that prevents the blanket from rubbing on the horse's mane. High-neck blankets come up about mid-neck and are a good choice for horses with narrow shoulders and high withers. The higher design reduces pressure on the withers, which prevents rubbing and keeps them comfy all winter long.

5. Belly Surcingles prevent the blanket from rotating on the horse's barrel. Blankets can come with one, two, or three surcingles. Typically, the more surcingles, the more secure the blanket will be on the horse. This could be ideal for horses who like to escape from their blankets.

6. Leg Straps/Tail Cords help keep the blanket from rotating on the horse. They are typically made from elastic and are removable and adjustable to fit a wide variety of horses. If a blanket does not have leg straps, it may have a tail cord, which runs under the horse's tail and connects the ends of the blanket together. Tail cords work similarly to leg straps but are not as secure.

7. Tail Flaps can come in two sizes: standard and large. The benefit of having a larger tail flap is that it offers the horse more protection against wind or rain. However, a large tail flap could be too cumbersome if your horse is on the smaller side, and a standard flap may be more appropriate.

Blanket denier refers to the thickness of each fiber used in the making of a horse blanket. Blankets with a higher denier have thicker fibers and, therefore, are more resistant to tearing and ripping. Some horses who are rough on their blanket may need a higher denier count to make it through the winter season, while blanket-friendly horses can get away with a lower denier.

The material can also influence how strong and durable the blanket is. For example, ballistic nylon is stronger than polypropylene nylon (which is stronger than standard polyester nylon). If you have a horse who is a blanket wrecker, choosing a higher denier with high-quality fiber is your best bet for making sure your blanket survives the winter.

Q: Is the horse's body clipped?

Yes: Depending on the type of body clip, horses who have had their guard hairs removed will need a blanket to keep warm.

No: An unclipped horse may not need any blankets, since they can grow the necessary hair coat to stay warm.

Q: Does the horse have access to shelter?

Yes: Horses who live in a stall or have access to shelter while turned out may not need a blanket.

No: Horses without shelter may require a blanket to fend off the elements, such as particularly cold wind and/or rain.

Q: Does the horse have a good body condition score?

Yes: Horses who are easy keepers typically produce enough energy to keep themselves warm during the wintertime.

No: Horses who are hard keepers may need the additional support of a blanket to keep warm in the colder months.

Q. Is the horse older?

Yes: Horses do not process their food as efficiently as they age, reducing the amount of body heat they can produce to keep warm. Adding a blanket may be necessary for a senior horse to keep them warm and prevent weight loss.

No: Younger horses who have a sufficient amount of food can produce enough internal body heat and may not need a blanket to keep warm.

Q. Will the horse be blanketed consistently?

Yes: If your barn has a consistent blanketing schedule or if you will be removing your horse's blanket daily, then blanketing is a good idea. Depending on conditions, horses will need their blanket removed (or at least switched to a lighter blanket) when daytime temperatures increase.

No: If your horse's blanket cannot be removed during the warmer times of the day, then blanketing may not be appropriate. Sporadic or inconsistent blanketing can cause more discomfort than choosing not to blanket at all.

Q. Is the horse showing?

Yes: Show horses typically have a full-body clip or at least a modified clip. Horses that are clipped will need to be blanketed, especially when temperatures decrease. Some competition horses who are not clipped still need to be blanketed to maintain a smooth and sleek coat. These horses must be consistently blanketed to keep the hair shorter.

No: Horses who do not compete during the winter months may maintain their full winter coat and will most likely not need to be blanketed.

Every horse is different in how they hold heat. Just like humans, they can run hot or cold; while some horses prefer to stand outside in the elements, others want to be tucked away inside. Knowing your horse will be imperative to dressing them correctly. Many horse owners overblanket their horses, causing unnecessary discomfort for their equine companions.

While the chart below can be used as a general guideline, we highly encourage continuing your research to make an educated decision on what blanket weight and type would be the most ideal for your horse, environment, and climate. As a handy reference, take advantage of the shareable image of our when to blanket chart! Consider blanketing factors and your horse's own circumstances to determine the right blanket weight:

The weight of a horse blanket refers to the amount of fill (insulation) it has per square meter. There are lightweight, medium, and heavyweight options with corresponding amounts of fill, ranging from 0g to 450g.

• Lightweight: No fill to 150g of insulation - A good choice for keeping your horse dry in the rain and cozy in warmer climates.
• Medium Weight: 180g to 250g of insulation - Provides protection and warmth for colder climates.
• Heavy Weight: 275g to 450g of insulation - Ideal for very cold conditions with temperatures below freezing (32° Fahrenheit / 0° Celsius).

We suggest blanketing your horse if they have been clipped, since clipping removes their guard hairs that protect them from the cold, rain, and snow. The weight of the blanket used will depend on the individual horse, as some horses run warm while others get cold easily.

The ideal blanket weight will also depend on whether your horse is fully body-clipped or has a modified clip. Horses that are fully body-clipped will likely need a medium-weight to heavy-weight blanket, even if they live in a sheltered area or an area where the temperatures are mild.

As a general rule, replace the hair you have removed from clipping with a blanket of equal weight. For example, if you have only clipped a narrow strip along the horse's sides, a lightweight blanket may suffice. If you have clipped a large area around their neck, sides, belly, and shoulders, a heavier blanket may be needed. We recommend using a lycra hood or neck attachment to cover any clipped areas around the horse's face and neck, as a clipped horse is more prone to being rubbed by a blanket.

Certain weather conditions make it challenging for your horse to stay warm, even if they are unclipped. The two most important weather elements to protect your horse from are wind and rain. Cold wind causes your horse the greatest discomfort, as it rapidly pulls body heat away from them. Wind will blow the warm air from the surface of the skin, which makes it hard for the horse to retain body heat.

Cold rain can also be detrimental, as it can chill the horse's skin when water flattens the coat and does not allow the protective layer of hair to retain heat. Note: Snow is less of a problem because it collects on top of your horse's coat and acts as a layer of insulation.

If you choose to blanket your horse for protection against wind and cold rain, choose a waterproof turnout blanket that will not let water penetrate the blanket or soak through to the horse's coat.

A blanket liner or sheet can be used under any blanket in case the horse needs a bit more insulation. The solution of layering blankets can also help you avoid over-blanketing your horse with too heavy a blanket. Liners are beneficial because you can change the "weight" of your blanket without having to purchase a new blanket. For example, you can add a 100g liner underneath a 0g blanket to provide more warmth as needed.

To assess if your horse is comfortable with the additional warmth from a liner, run a hand underneath the layers to check if the horse is sweating. They should be warm to the touch but not excessively hot. If your horse feels cold, that is an indication that they were recently sweating, but the sweat has dried. Closely monitor your equine to avoid causing them to sweat underneath their blanket, as it will give your horse the chills.

Rely on your individual horse's internal thermostat and living situation. They will tell you what they need, and that is a much more reliable gauge than the outside ambient temperature. Also, keep in mind that it is safer to under-blanket than over-blanket!

Properly cooling your horse out after a training session in the wintertime is crucial to their health and well-being. After your horse works up a sweat and raises its body temperature, it is important to slowly lower it back down to normal levels.

Using a cooler or anti-sweat sheet that is made from moisture-wicking fabric, such as fleece, will pull sweat away from your horse's body to help dry them off quickly. After a ride, you can place a cooler on your horse and hand walk them until they cool down. Alternatively, leave the cooler on while they are in cross-ties (or tied up in a place where you can check on them regularly). Using a towel to rub them down or groom-in product, like Coat Defense, will also speed up the drying process.

Once your horse is cool to the touch and dry, it's safe to put on their blanket or sheet. The duration of the cooling-off process will depend on how sweaty your horse is, the length of their coat, and the temperature outside. A clipped horse will dry off much faster than an unclipped horse. Ensure your horse is totally dry and their body temperature has returned to normal before putting the blanket back on.

Putting a blanket over a cooler will result in a damp cooler sitting on your horse's body until the cooler is removed. This is similar to you putting a jacket over your sweaty workout clothes and standing out in the cold! Sheets or blankets on a damp horse still equals a damp horse—and a damp sheet or blanket as well. Plan your cool down accordingly for your horse's health!

1. Grab a friend and a soft fabric tape measure. If you don't have a soft fabric tape measure, see our "Pro Tips" below for other options.
2. One person will place the fabric tape measure at the center of your horse's chest, just below where their neck ties into their body, and hold the end of the tape there.
3. The second person should unroll the tape measure around the widest part of your horse's shoulder and angle it up to the farthest point of the horse's buttock.
4. This person will wrap the tape around the point of your horse's buttock, and then end the measurement in the middle of the tail.
5. You will use this measurement to find your horse's blanket size. If your horse is between sizes, it is usually a safe bet to round up. Always consult the manufacturer's sizing chart, as one horse blanket brand can size a bit differently from another!

For our visual learners, watch the video below to learn how to measure your horse for a blanket, ensuring you purchase the right size for your horse every time.

A well-fitting blanket should cover your horse's body and still allow them complete freedom of movement. Evaluate these three points on the blanket to decide if it is a good fit for your equine partner.

Shoulders:

The front buckle closures should land across the chest and not stretch over near the points of the shoulders. The neckline should rest above the shoulder. A neckline that sags down to expose the shoulders is too large. You should be able to run a hand along the chest and shoulders and not feel tension or see visible pulling.

Withers:

Ensure that you can place a hand between the withers and blanket. A blanket that is too tight will rub the withers and be uncomfortable for the horse. A blanket that's too big can create tension across the top of the horse's back and cause discomfort.

Length:

A blanket should cover the horse's barrel and flank and should end just below the elbow and stifle. A blanket that's too small won't offer enough coverage, while a blanket that's too big is hazardous and may cause the horse to get hung up. The back length should ensure the horse's hindquarters are fully covered but should not hang past the tail.

You will find a variety of adjustment points on your horse's blanket, and it is important to fit these straps properly to ensure your horse's safety while they're wearing their blanket. We encourage maintaining the good practice of consistently double-checking your horse's blanket straps for wear and tear to see if they need replacing. If a part needs to be swapped out, we offer replacement straps and buckles for horse blankets for your shopping convenience!

Chest Buckles & Surcingles:

Chest buckles or surcingles allow the blanket to be adjusted tighter or looser for an ideal fit. Some blankets have traditional buckles, while others use "quick clips" for quick and easy access. Some quick clip styles do not offer adjustable tabs.

When adjusting chest straps, you can check to ensure the blanket is tightened just right by sliding a hand down the neck. From here, you can loosen or tighten accordingly.

Belly Surcingles:

Belly surcingles prevent the blanket from rotating around the horse's barrel. Blankets typically come with one, two, or three belly surcingles. For a more secure fit to keep the escape artist horses in, try a blanket with more belly surcingles!

Belly surcingles commonly cross into an "X" shape to ensure the horse's legs cannot get caught, and the correct fit is critical to help prevent this from happening. You should be able to fit a closed fist in between the horse's belly and straps.

Leg Straps:

Adjusting and attaching your horse's leg straps properly is a crucial part of ensuring that the blanket does not rotate. Each leg strap should be hooked around each of the horse's hind legs, as well as linked to the other. By linking the straps around the leg, through one another, and then connecting back to the blanket, you can eliminate the chances of your horse's leg getting caught up in the opposite leg strap.

To properly adjust your leg straps, make each strap the same length. The length should be approximately a hand's width from the strap to the thigh. This will allow the straps to keep the blanket in place while giving your horse freedom to move.

Tail Strap:

Tail straps hang straight across the back of the blanket and tuck under the tail. They should keep the end of the blanket loosely against the sides of the horse's hindquarters without tugging. There is less risk of a leg getting caught in a tail strap, however, they do tend to collect more dirt and manure.

Neck Hood/Cover:

A neck hood or cover adds extra protection to the neck area. They can be removable on some blankets, while others have the neck cover permanently attached (commonly referred to as "combo-neck" blankets). If the blanket has a removable hood design, there are typically D-rings or velcro strap slots to allow the neck cover to come on or off. A detachable neck cover can be useful for horses who live in climates that tend to change often.

Choosing the right blanket wash is essential because the wrong cleaner can strip the waterproof properties from your horse blankets and sheets. A good wash will be formulated to clean and preserve your blankets and may even add back some water repellency. Be sure to follow the directions on the bottle carefully.

If you notice that water no longer beads and runs off the surface of the blanket, it might be time to re-waterproof it. Many factors can contribute to a blanket losing its waterproof properties, such as age, sun exposure, and incorrect washing. Luckily, re-waterproofing is an easy process, and it is a great idea to do this if you plan to wash your blankets at home. There are multiple waterproofing products to choose from; however, it is best to check with the manufacturer's policies to ensure that re-waterproofing doesn't void any warranties. Furthermore, they may suggest a specific rug wash to use on their products that will preserve the original waterproofing. Once you've decided on a re-waterproofing product, be sure to read and follow the directions carefully for the best results.

Shop our blanket washes and re-waterproofing washes below:

Machine Washing Horse Blankets:

1. First, remove all hair, dirt, and debris from your blanket with a stiff brush to help loosen any caked-on mud or feces.
2. When removing dirt from the blanket itself, always check the straps and brush them as clean as possible.
3. A quick "pre-wash" at the barn before putting the blanket in your washing machine will lessen the workload on your machine. Simply hose the blanket down and let it air dry.
4. Once dry, place the blanket in a mesh wash bag and into the washing machine. Wash with cool water and on a gentle cycle. Cool water won't damage the waterproof coating, and a mesh wash bag will keep the blanket straps from getting caught inside your machine.
5. Use a blanket-specific detergent to wash the blanket. Be sure to follow the directions on the detergent for best results.
6. Once the blanket is finished in the washer, hang it outside to dry. Do not put the blanket in the dryer, as the heat can damage the waterproof coating on the blanket. To prevent spotting, try to hang the blanket in the shade instead of directly in the sunlight. Be sure to flip the blanket to make sure it dries thoroughly and evenly. You want to make sure the blanket is completely dry before folding for storage to avoid any mold or mildew growing in the off-season.

Hand Washing Horse Blankets:

1. The first step for hand-washing is the same as for the washing machine. Start by removing any hair, dirt, and debris with a stiff brush.
2. Hose the blanket down with cool water to remove any loose dirt. You may need to repeat step one to loosen up tough dirt and manure stains.
3. Spread a blanket-specific detergent along your hard brush and begin to scrub the blanket down in a circular motion. Make sure you go over the entire blanket, especially the hard-to-reach areas.
4. Once the blanket is fully lathered, use the hose again with cool water to rinse the blanket. Make sure you remove all the soap from the blanket. Any residual soap could irritate your horse's skin.
5. When all the soap has been rinsed out, hang your blanket outside to dry. Again, try to find a place outside that is not directly in the sun to avoid spotting. Make sure the blanket is completely dry before folding and storing.

Horse blankets have many components that can become damaged over time. To keep your blanket looking its best, it is essential to inspect your blanket often. Leg straps, surcingles, chest straps, and tail cords can all break or need a replacement. Luckily, Riding Warehouse carries all of these replacement pieces. Rips and tears need to be professionally repaired to ensure the integrity of the blanket. Your trainer or even a local equestrian social media page in your area may offer recommendations for local blanket repair shops and businesses.

Preventing Future Damage

If you have a horse who loves to chew on their blanket (or a pasture pal horse that likes to chew their friend's blanket), you can seek a chew deterrent meant for horses. Spraying the blanket with a good chew deterrent can prevent future damage and help your blanket last another season or two.

If your horse is turned out with destructive pasture mates, and you can't change their turnout arrangement, some horse owners choose to put a heavy-duty mesh fly sheet over their horse's blanket. The mesh fly sheet will take the brunt of any damage from bites or scrapes, without adding heat! However, it is important to realize that fly sheets aren't weatherproof, as they're intended for summer.

Keeping your blankets nice and tidy not only keeps them in better condition but also saves time and effort later down the line. Blanket bars or racks can easily be installed on the front of your horse's stall, or in a tack room where they will stay dry. Most fold down when not in use, keeping them out of the way when you don't need them.

An alternative is using a hanging blanket storage bag, which can be hung outside your horse's stall during blanket season (or safely stored in your tack room during the off-season).

If you have a horse that turns everything into a toy - or if the door-hanging look isn't your favorite - then floor boxes are a great option. Whether you go for a fancy trunk style or clean storage container from a hardware store, boxes are great options to keep playful teeth away and aisles uncluttered. At the end of the season, simply pack them into the boxes after cleaning and stack the boxes in a storage space.

No matter how you choose to store your blankets, knowing how to properly fold your horse blankets helps you keep the barn organized. Below is a how-to video that shows the best way to fold and store a standard-neck blanket and a blanket with a neck cover:

Horses naturally grow winter coats in response to diminishing daylight. As the days get shorter and nights grow longer, an instinctual trigger deep in the horse's brain responds and relays messages to the rest of the body to prepare for the coming cold. After a couple of months of diminishing daylight hours, a horse's winter coat starts to come to the surface. Around the same time, their summer coat begins to fall out and cause shedding. You may not be aware of this annual fall shedding because the summer coat your horse loses is mainly comprised of short hair.

The incoming winter coat is made up of hairs of different lengths, including short fine hairs and long "guard" hairs. The guard hairs provide an outer coat and block the cold, while the short hairs insulate and keep the horse toasty. Your local climate influences your horse's winter coat characteristics. Horses living in the southern regions tend to grow shorter winter coats than horses in northern areas.

Blanketing will not prevent the growth of the winter coat. However, blanketing does cause the hair to grow shorter because of the warmer environment for your horse. When consistently covered by a blanket, the horse's body thinks it is in a warm mini-climate—even if the weather outside is wintry.

Blanketing also smooths the hair, creating an appearance of sleekness compared to an unruly winter coat. If maintaining a short, sleek coat is your objective, consider using a blanket with a neck cover; your horse will keep growing its neck hairs to fend off the cold if left unprotected.

If you blanket your horse one year and not the next, you will not inhibit their natural winter coat from growing back. It is a natural cycle that will recur every year, whether you decide to blanket or not.

With our generous 365-day return policy for eligible orders, you don't have to fret about horse blanket returns or exchanges. Many horse owners find that a particular blanket brand fits their horse's body type better than another, so be aware that it can take some trial-and-error to find the best-fitting blanket. Your horse may also be one size in a certain brand, and then a different size in another blanket brand. We highly recommend preparing for blanket season well in advance, so you're not scrambling at the last minute at the expense of your equine!

Horse blankets come in a huge range of weights, fills, sizes, and have a wide variety of features to suit all kinds of equines and environments. If you feel overwhelmed by all of our blanket options, our guide on the Best Winter Horse Blankets will help you narrow down the choices!