How to Choose a Cowboy Hat

So, you are new to cowboy hats or currently on the hunt for your perfect cowboy hat. Whether it's days in the saddle or lifestyle fashion, cowboy hats are a western necessity for sun protection. There are many different price points and styles on the market, and our goal is to provide an ideal option or two for you (let's be honest, some of us have an ever-growing collection). Learn the ins and outs of cowboy hats, and get ready to tackle ranch work, the rodeo, or nights downtown! Read on to feel like a true cowboy or cowgirl.

Cowboy Hat Materials

Felt cowboy hats offer a traditional western look, with fur being the main material used. Different fur types can be used in the process, including beaver, rabbit, mink, chinchilla, and other furs. Felt cowboy hats can be worn in the summertime, but are typically used at night or during the winter months when temperatures drop. Felt is very durable and naturally water-repellent. The "X"s in a felt hat's name or description determine the percentage of fur materials used in its construction:

• A higher number of Xs on your cowboy hat generally means it contains a higher amount of fur, improving its overall quality. The finer the fur type, the more Xs a cowboy hat will have.
• For example, a 10X beaver fur-felt cowboy hat will be more expensive than a 4X wool-felt cowboy hat.

Straw cowboy hats are more common and generally lower priced. Although most straw cowboy hats are relatively inexpensive, their prices are still dependent upon quality. The straw materials used can range from sisal and jute, to palm leaf, and more. Straw cowboy hats are ideal for summer events or riding, since they provide shade while keeping your head cool in the heat. Straw is also lighter in weight than felt. Straw cowboy hats can contain Xs in their specification as well:

• The X number identifies the tightness of the fabric weave and the thickness and quality of the straw reeds.
• A higher number of Xs means a more densely woven and durable straw hat.

Cowboy hats can also be made out of other materials like suede and leather, but these are not as common; they typically require more upkeep as well.

Brim: The horizontal ledge that extends from the base of the crown. Brims vary in size and may be flat, turned up, or turned down in either the front or back or both. The brim can also be considered the "bill" or "visor."

Underbrim: The underside of the cowboy hat's brim.

Crown: The top section above the brim that sits on your head. There is often a crease in the crown, whereas an open crown has no creasing.

Crown Height: The crown height is measured from the brim or hat band bottom, then up to the middle dip of the crease directly in the middle of the crown.

Crease: The crease refers to the styling of bends at the top of the cowboy hat's crown. There are different crease styles that determine the crown shape. The crease might also be called the "pinch" or "dent."

Hat Band: Many cowboy hats are adorned with a decorative band that circles the base of the crown. Hat bands can be made from a variety of materials, whether the same material as the hat, leather, horsehair, ribbon, and more.

Sweatband: Practically every cowboy hat has a sweatband for some padding. The sweatband is located inside the crown right above the hat's underbrim. Sweatbands help with the shape and fit of the cowboy hat and are typically made of fabric or leather.

Inner Lining: Felt cowboy hats commonly feature lining on the interior of the crown. Liners are made from soft materials for a comfortable feel, and to protect the inside of the hat from dirt, sweat, and stains. They can be made from satin, velvet, cotton, silk, and more. Straw cowboy hats typically do not have an inner lining in order to keep the hat breathable.

Cowboy hats are offered in a wide variety of crown shapes. We have listed some of the common ones below:

The "Cattleman" crease is the most traditional and well known, as it is the oldest style found in cowboy hats. The Cattleman features a taller crown typically between four and five inches, but is narrower with a single crease down the center and two creases along the side. This crown was designed to improve cowboy hat security in the wind or rain.

The "Cutter" crease seen on cowboy hats is a modified Cattleman crease. In the Cutter style, the sides of the crease on the crown are bumped out of the cowboy hat.

The "Brick" crease normally features the same right and left curled brim toward the front, making the hat take on a drop shape. A hat with the Brick crease will feature a square crown and rectangular-shaped crease at the top.

The "Gus" crease has a brim of roughly six inches and a crown featuring two dots, or two creases, also known as the "reach and grab." This name originates from cowboys that tended to grab their hat by the top of the crown, and their fingers would make a crease to the left and right of the crown.

The "Biggs" crease is a modified version of the Cattleman crown with the crease being smaller and up higher on the crown. The hat is almost pinched to a line on the right and left of the crown.

The "Cool Hand Luke" crease is typically seen on rough-stock riders. It features a very tall crown with a circular crease on top. The hat almost looks like an open crown, but is not since it does have some shape.

The "Telescope" is a low crown that covers your head but stops hot air from accumulating. It features a wide brim that provides sun protection. The Telescope is often known today as "The Gambler's Hat."

The "Minnick" hat shape is very similar to the Cattleman crease. This shape is just slightly less defined, with the angles on the creases not being quite as sharp.

Cowboy hats regularly come in a round shape, but can also be offered in a long oval shape. Depending on your hat size and head shape, a long oval or round may fit better. If you try on a round cowboy hat and feel pressure on the forehead and back of your head without contact at the sides, then you have an oval head shape. If you feel tightness near your temples in a long oval cowboy hat, then you have a rounder head shape.

How to Measure

Use a soft measuring tape or string and measure just above your eyebrows around the widest part of your head, where the cowboy hat sweatband would naturally sit. Note both the inch and centimeter measurements to determine your hat size, which can vary by the maker and style of cowboy hat.

Always compare your measurements to the manufacturer's specific size chart, but feel free to reference our chart below as a general guideline. If you find yourself between sizes, we suggest going with the larger size. Cowboy hats can shrink over time due to sweat and humidity. With a slightly roomier hat, it is much easier to add foam pads or paper towels to the inside of the sweatband to fill in any gaps.

Checking Fit

Take your cowboy hat by the crown and put it on from the front of your brow, then press it down toward the back of your head. Handle the crown gently! Your cowboy hat should feel snug, but not so tight that it is not able to slightly move around on your head. Put your first two fingers together and hold them above your eyebrow, then do the same above your ear. Your hat should sit about one to two fingers above your eyebrow and one to two fingers above your ear.

A hat that is too tight is harder to stretch out and may cause discomfort; however, straw and felt cowboy hats can slightly stretch with use over time. The more you wear your new hat, the quicker it will break in and naturally settle. Cowboy hats eventually form to the shape of your head, which makes them uniquely comfortable to you in the long run!

In the video below, we will go over how to size yourself for a cowboy hat and how to check the fit of the hat that you order.

Face Shape

The crown height of a cowboy hat can be low or high profile and should be taken into consideration. To determine the crown height, measure the crown from the brim to the front center dent of the crease. Women will typically choose a shorter crown height while men will go with a taller crown; it really depends on personal preference and the stature of the cowboy or cowgirl. Crown heights generally vary anywhere between 4 and 5 inches.

If you have a thin elongated face, a medium crown height will suit your face best. A crown that is too short or too tall will likely make your face look more elongated. A more pinched crown will help break up the straight lines your facial features naturally have.

If you have an oval shaped face, a hat with a wider brim and medium to tall crown will be the most flattering. The width and height will help give dimension to your face. Keep in mind that the taller the head crown, the more headroom you will have, with the hat appearing larger. Cowboy hats with a smaller brim might cause your face to appear larger.

For round face shapes, a hat that has a taller crown and very sharp defined creases in the brim will be the most flattering, as it will give definition to your face. A very square, sharp crease line with high sides on the brim is recommended.

The brim size typically varies from 3 to 5 inches wide; this measurement is taken from the bottom center of the crown to the back edge of the brim, on the flattest part of the cowboy hat. The brim shape and size emphasizes a person's facial features, highlighting your face shape.

You can always buy a cowboy hat with an open crown hat to have it shaped exactly to your liking. Please note: at Riding Warehouse, we do not offer cowboy hat shaping services.

An open crown is much easier to shape than trying to reshape a cowboy hat with an existing shape; however, it can be done! Note that reshaping straw cowboy hats can potentially damage them. Felt cowboy hats are generally much easier to shape and reshape; all it takes is a little bit of steam and time! Take your cowboy hat to the nearest shop that offers shaping services. Or, you can attempt to shape your cowboy hat at home if you are confident doing so.

We cannot accept returns of cowboy hats that have been altered by shaping or reshaping, due to the product being modified from its original state. Please see our full return policy here. Cowboy hats are oversized items and therefore ineligible for our free return shipping offer.

Storage

You can temporarily lay your cowboy hat down on its brim side, but doing this regularly will gradually weaken your hat's brim and likely cause it to flatten. Resting your hat upside down on its crown reduces stress on the brim, as the crown is stronger. For long-term storage, your cowboy hat should be supported from the inside of the crown on a coat rack, post, cowboy hat stand, or in a container box. We offer convenient hat can carriers for easy storage and transport of a single cowboy hat or two cowboy hats! Give your cowboy hat the care it needs by keeping it in a cool, dry place.

Hat Cleaning

Wool felt is easier to maintain, as there is less of a risk of damaging the material. We do suggest taking in your high-quality fur felt cowboy hat, such as beaver, for professional cleaning. Doing at least a monthly cleaning (depending on use) will prolong the lifespan of your cowboy hat.

To clean up a felt hat, a small horsehair or hat brush can be used to remove dust and debris without compromising the integrity of the felt. Always start with a felt cowboy hat that is dry. A lint roller or tape can also be used to remove any debris from your hat. It is not recommended to use water when cleaning a felt hat, but a cloth or sponge slightly dampened with water can be used for spot cleaning if your felt cowboy hat is particularly dirty.

To clean a straw hat, you can use a damp cloth or sponge to gently wipe away dirt or residue on your hat. Window cleaner or a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and water can also be used to help remove more stubborn stains. Never fully submerge your cowboy hat in water, no matter the material!

Should your felt or straw cowboy hat get soaked, do not try to speed up the drying process. Let it naturally air dry away from the sun. Cowboy hats can become warped with too much heat! Consult the manufacturer's care instructions for specifics to ensure the longevity of your cowboy hat.

Sweatband Cleaning

Sweatband cleaning differs depending on the material of the sweatband, whether it's fabric or leather. For fabric sweatbands, fold them down then use a mild detergent and water mixture to clean. Use a soft brush to scrub the band and leave it folded down until it fully air dries. For leather sweatbands, fold them down and use a leather cleaner, then follow up with a leather conditioner to keep the sweatband supple.

Should your sweatband become especially soiled with grease and sweat, sprinkle it with cornstarch, talcum powder, or baking soda to absorb the oils. Let it sit for a few hours, then brush away with a soft brush. Repeat as necessary.

• The cowboy hat originated from the original Vaquero cattlemen who wore sombreros.
• Supposedly, placing your cowboy hat on a bed will bring bad luck! Unless you want to invite bad juju into your life, do not place your cowboy hat on your bed.
• There are many cowboy hat etiquette rules, such as taking your hat off for formal occasions or when introducing yourself to a woman.
• A cowboy hat is a very special piece of private property. Do not mess with someone's cowboy hat, especially a stranger's, or you might get socked in the face!

Keep in mind that the perfect cowboy hat for you comes down to your personal preference. There is no right or wrong way to wear or shape a cowboy hat. Your hat is a reflection of your personality, and you can wear it however you want! Should you have any lingering questions, please reach out to our customer service team for assistance.

Check out some of our staff's favorite cowboy hats below, or take a peek at our full collection to find your own favorite!