A Complete Guide to
Cowboy Boots

The cowboy boot is traditional and iconic—and for good reason! The cowboy boot as we know it today was inspired by Spanish vaquero-style footwear back in the 1600s. Cowboy boots, also known as western boots, have since evolved to include many different styles, shapes, and materials. They can be both functional and beautiful, whether you're wearing them for riding or out on the town.

Our staff at Riding Warehouse has been helping our customers find their perfect boots for over a decade. This guide was created as the ultimate informational resource, so you can find your perfect style and fit. Below we'll cover everything you need to know about the parts of the boot, different styles, materials, and sizing so you can find your perfect match!

Parts of the Cowboy Boot

Before you begin your search for the right pair of boots, understanding some common terminology can help you figure out what to look for. Depending on what you're using them for, you'll want to make sure your boots have certain parts or features. Although cowboy boots can vary in design and construction, some pieces stay consistent in every boot.

• Pull/Tug Straps: These are straps at the top of the boot on either side, which allow you to slip your fingers around them and "pull" your foot into the boot.
• Shaft: The shaft of the boot is the long tube that starts at the heel and goes up to wrap around the leg. Shafts can differ greatly in height, width, style, and design.
• Heel: The heel is essential when it comes to cowboy boots. For riding boots, the heel prevents your feet from sliding through the stirrups, thus keeping you safe. Different heel angles, heights, and materials will affect your overall boot fit and level of grip.
• Tongue/Instep: The tongue, or instep, is the top piece on the outside and inside where the leather meets the boot shaft. If the instep is too tight and narrow, it can cause discomfort; on the other hand, an instep that is too loose will cause your feet to slide around.
• Vamp: The vamp is the most visible part of the boot, commonly decorated with intricate stitching. It covers the top of your foot and should be comfortably snug. If you have a particularly high instep, the vamp will likely feel tight.
• Welt: The welt is the construction in which the sole is attached. Different welt types determine how strong, durable, and supportive the boots are. The welt also affects how easy or difficult the boots are to resole. The most common is the Goodyear welt, as it tends to be more water-resistant and last longer than other types.

Cowboy Boot Styles

Traditional Boots:

The traditional boot was designed for the stirrup. This style of boot is built for durability and function while on the horse. It's constructed with a tall shaft that stops about calf height to keep your calves protected in the saddle. A narrow toe and heel block keep your feet in place in the stirrups.

Roper Boots:

Roper boots are similar to traditional cowboy boots but specifically designed for roping cattle. The shaft and heel are both shorter to make them more comfortable to wear and walk in. These boots are the perfect combination of western style and practicality.

Work Boots:

Work boots are designed for durability and hard wear. These boots are built to protect your feet while working out in the field and farm. Work boots normally feature a thick rubber sole to provide grip, and a wider round toe that can be reinforced with steel to give excellent protection (in certain circumstances). Steel toe is typically used in construction and similar fields; however, steel toe is not recommended to wear around horses or cattle.

Short Boots:

For the country fashionista, short boots, otherwise known as booties, are a must-have. These kinds of boots feature a small shaft that stops at about ankle height. They're typically worn as a fashion statement more than as a riding boot. These boots are the perfect way to bring some western style into your wardrobe!

Exotic Boots:

With all the different styles of cowboy boots, some can be more uniquely crafted to help show off your individual style. Exotic boots are made from exotic materials including, but not limited to: ostrich, alligator, snakeskin, and bison.

Dress Boots:

Crafted from high-quality materials with detailed stitching or embroidery, dress boots provide a more professional feel for nicer events like weddings. Unlike many of the more practical and rugged styles on this list, dress boots provide you with a clean and crisp look. Rarely used for riding, dress boots are usually saved for those special events and functions away from the barn.

Square Toe:

Square-toe boots offer the most space with their wide width, making them quite comfortable for every kind of activity. This shape is cut straight across like a square, as the name suggests. This style of toe is commonly seen in riding boots.

Round Toe:

Round-toe boots are rounded all the way around and do not come to a point. Being more popular in casual scenarios, round-toe boots allow more wiggle room for your feet.

Traditional Toe:

The most commonly known and worn option is the traditional, or regular, toe. This toe is oval and comes to a slightly narrow point. If you are a first-time boot buyer, the traditional toe is a great choice!

Snip Toe:

Snip toes are found in fashion and dress boots; they are much narrower in shape than the other styles on this list. The snip toe squares off slightly at the end of the point. These have a more formal look and make the leg look longer and more elegant. Snip toes are commonly interchanged with the term "pointy toes."

Full-Grain Leather:

Most cowboy boots are crafted from full-grain leather, meaning the leather has not been altered or changed from its natural state. All scuffs and imperfections are left as is, making each boot unique.

Top-Grain Leather:

A popular material used for cowboy boots, top-grain leather is still considered a premium option. Top-grain leather is easier to access, and any imperfections can be remedied instead of having to be cut out.

Synthetic Materials:

Synthetic materials can be found in combination with leather or on their own to provide additional benefits for all-day wear, such as mesh paneling in the boot shaft for added ventilation. Synthetic boots can be easier to care for, as they do not require as much maintenance as leather. They also hold up longer against cracking from water exposure.

Leather Outsole & Heel:

Traditional cowboy boot outsoles are made with heavy-duty leather, providing a comfortable feel that breathes and helps absorb sweat. While riding, leather soles have the advantage of allowing you to easily slip your boots in and out of the stirrups if needed (especially in the case of an emergency). With a slick feel, the traction on leather sole boots is minimal, making this outsole perfect for dancing purposes! Leather-sole boots will need to be resoled over time by a specialized cobbler, typically after two to three years of regular use. Most boot heels are made of compressed leather.

Rubber Outsole & Heel:

The invention of the rubber outsole, normally found on roper-style boots, has allowed for improved durability for cowboy boots. Rubber is a newer outsole material that has been around for only the past few decades. It is both flexible and stable, making it more commonly sought after for work boot purposes. These are built to tackle wet or slippery conditions, whether you're on concrete or in the dirt. With strong anti-slip properties, rubber outsoles and heels provide traction with each step at a more budget-friendly cost. Some rubber soles on boots are also oil-resistant or electrical hazard rated.

Hybrid Outsole & Heel:

Hybrid cowboy boots consist of a leather outsole and rubber heel, which allows for easy movement while providing some grip. This material combination is great for riding and for wearing around town, giving you the best of both worlds for the arena or the dance floor. Truly handcrafted western cowboy boots feature hand-rolled and hand-pegged outsoles.

The fit of your cowboy boot is the most important piece of your boot selection process. There is nothing worse than riding all day in a pair of boots that are uncomfortable or hurt. Follow our helpful guidelines below to find the right fit:

1. If a specified sizing chart is provided by the manufacturer, measure the length of both feet from heel to toe and compare. Consider the socks you would be wearing with your boots.
2. Choose your typical size, unless otherwise suggested. Some manufacturers can size their boots small or large. Your boots should be snug but not so tight that they cause discomfort.
3. Move your toes to ensure they have room and are comfortable.
4. Pinch the leather directly above the instep—there should be some room to pinch if the boots fit. If there is no leather to pinch, the boot may be too small, and the next half or full size up might work better.
5. With each step, there should be a slight heel slip. A quarter to half an inch of heel space is normal.

Cowboy Boot Fitting Factors:

Socks: Always wear the socks you are expecting to wear with your boots, preferably boot socks. Thicker socks can add at least an additional half size to your feet. If you are in between sizes, order the larger of the two.

Narrow or Wide Feet: Purchase your normal foot size in a medium width and add an insole (if needed) if you have narrow feet, to avoid cramming your toes in a boot that's too small. If you have wide feet, either go with a boot that's designated "wide" by the manufacturer or try a half size larger than normal. If you have one foot that's slightly bigger than the other, choose the boot size that fits your larger foot.

Instep: Try a wider boot if you have a high instep, which can cause the vamp of the boots to feel tight against the top of your feet. If you have particularly flat feet and the vamp feels loose, go down to a narrower boot width.

For more assistance in finding the right fit, watch our helpful video on how to size and fit cowboy boots below:

Cowboy Boot Care

Western cowboy boots come in a variety of materials, with the majority being leather. Always follow the manufacturer's care instructions, or at least research the proper care techniques for your boots before using any treatment products. As a general rule of thumb for leather cowboy boots, regular cleaning and conditioning should occur every three to six months of normal wear. Leather conditioners will not alter the color of your boots, even though they may appear darker when first applied. Leather oils, however, will darken your boot leather. A pair of boots can last years when properly taken care of!

Q: How should my cowboy boots feel?

A: Your feet should feel snug in your boots, with the balls of your feet sitting securely in the widest part of the boot. Your heels should initially slip a little in properly fitted boots, as the leather will soften and conform to your heels over time to help eliminate heel slippage. The extra heel space in new boots is necessary for the best fit. Your toes should be able to wiggle around in the toe box easily without any pain or discomfort.

Q: What type of boot should I wear for horseback riding?

A: Boot type and heel height largely come down to personal preference. However, there are a few considerations to keep in mind when selecting a pair of cowboy boots to ride in. Boots with the traditional narrow toe and higher heel height of around 2" are the best for riding, as they keep your feet more squarely planted in the stirrups. Boots with a middle heel height of around 1 1/2" are the most favored, as these cowboy boots offer the most versatility for walking, working, and horseback riding. Round toes and lower heel heights around 1" are commonly found in roper boots, as they are more comfortable for walking or working in; riders participating in events like calf roping tend to wear roper boots as they need to be able to easily get off their horse and run after roping the calf.

Q: Do I need to treat or condition my boots upon first wear to break them in?

A: The safest way to break in your new cowboy boots is to simply wear them around the house at first. You can even double up on two pairs of socks to more quickly stretch the leather to conform to your feet. If your new boots are still taking a while to break in or are particularly uncomfortable, leather conditioner can be used to loosen the leather, making it softer and more pliable.

The perfect pair of cowboy boots will elevate your look so you can feel your best and also help you perform your best in the saddle. Whether you're shopping for a pair to take into the arena or to hit the pavement, we're confident that there's a cowboy boot to take you there. With boots for a variety of styles, tastes, and purposes, our selection has something for everyone. We hope this guide has aided in your search for the perfect boot! If you have further questions, please reach out to our customer service team for additional guidance at info@ridingwarehouse.com or 1-800-620-9145. Check out our great selection of cowboy boots below: